What the Wayne Halo50 is and why you might install one

The Wayne Halo50 is a submersible sump pump — a device that sits in a pit below your basement floor and removes water that collects there. Water enters the pit naturally through the soil around your foundation, and the pump turns on automatically when the water level rises, pushing it out through a discharge pipe to the yard or storm drain. Most homeowners install one because their basement floods during heavy rain or because groundwater seeps in steadily.

The Halo50 is a mid-range model: smaller and cheaper than industrial pumps, but more durable than the smallest consumer versions. It moves about 4,700 gallons per hour at full power. Installation is something a homeowner with basic tools can do in a few hours, though you will need to decide whether to hire a plumber — the hardest part is usually running the discharge pipe outside, not the pump itself.

Key Takeaways

  • The sump pit must be at least 18 inches deep and wide enough for the pump to sit flat on the bottom without tilting.
  • The pump plugs into a standard outlet, but that outlet should be on a dedicated circuit or protected by a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) breaker.
  • The discharge pipe must slope downward away from your house and end at least 4 to 6 feet from the foundation, or connect to a storm drain if your area requires it.
  • The pump turns on and off automatically using a float switch that rises and falls with the water level in the pit.
  • You should test the pump by pouring water into the pit before you finish, to confirm it runs and the water drains.

Preparing the pit and checking the outlet

Before you buy the pump, measure your sump pit. The Halo50 needs a pit at least 18 inches deep and roughly 18 to 24 inches across — the pump is about 8 inches in diameter and needs room to sit flat on the bottom without rocking. If your pit is shallower or narrower, you may need to dig it deeper or wider, or choose a smaller pump. Check that the pit bottom is relatively level; a tilted pump can cause the float switch to stick.

Next, locate the outlet where you will plug in the pump. The pump cord is usually 10 to 15 feet long, so the outlet should be within that distance of the pit. The outlet must be a GFCI-protected outlet — either a GFCI outlet itself (the kind with "Test" and "Reset" buttons) or on a circuit protected by a GFCI breaker in your electrical panel. If you do not have one, hire an electrician to install it; a sump pump in a wet basement is a shock hazard without this protection. Do not use an extension cord as a permanent solution.

Installing the pump in the pit

Place the pump on the bottom of the pit so it sits flat and does not rock. The float switch — a hollow ball or cage attached to the pump by a rod — should hang freely and move up and down without hitting the pit walls or the pump itself. If the pit is too narrow, the float will jam and the pump will not turn off when the water level drops.

Attach the discharge pipe to the outlet on top of the pump. The Halo50 usually has a 1.5-inch outlet. Use a PVC pipe that matches this size; you can buy it at any hardware store in 10-foot lengths. Dry-fit the first section (push it on without glue) to make sure it seats firmly, then explore PVC cement to both the pump outlet and the inside of the pipe, and push the pipe on. Hold it for 30 seconds while the cement sets. Repeat this process for each additional section of pipe you need.

As you add pipe sections, support them with straps or clips every 4 to 6 feet so they do not sag or pull on the pump. The pipe should slope downward at least 1/4 inch per foot — a gentle downhill grade that helps water flow out. If you are running the pipe horizontally for a long distance before it goes outside, slope it slightly upward at the end so air can escape and the pipe does not siphon water back into the pit.

Running the discharge pipe outside

The discharge pipe must exit your basement through a wall or rim joist (the band of wood around the top of the foundation). Drill or cut a hole large enough for the pipe to pass through, sloping slightly downward toward the outside. Seal around the pipe with caulk or spray foam so water and pests cannot enter around the gap.

Outside, the pipe must end at least 4 to 6 feet away from your foundation — far enough that the water does not run back toward the house or pool around the basement wall. You can lay the pipe on the ground, bury it, or attach it to the house with clips. If you bury it, slope it downward so it drains completely when the pump stops; standing water in a buried pipe can freeze in winter and block the outlet. Some areas require the pipe to connect to a storm drain instead of discharging onto the yard; check your local code before you finish.

At the end of the pipe, install a check valve — a one-way valve that lets water out but prevents it from flowing back into the pit when the pump stops. This is usually a straightforward threaded fitting that screws onto the end of the pipe. Without it, water will siphon backward and the pump will run constantly.

Plugging in and testing the pump

Once the pipe is in place and the check valve is installed, plug the pump into the GFCI outlet. You should hear a quiet hum and see the float switch hanging freely. Do not run the pump dry for more than a few seconds — the motor uses water for cooling.

Pour water into the pit slowly until it reaches about 12 inches deep. The pump should turn on automatically as the water level rises and the float switch floats upward. Listen for the motor to run smoothly and watch the water level drop as it pumps out. The pump should turn off automatically once the water level falls below the float switch's lowest point. If the pump does not turn on, check that the outlet has power and that the float switch moves freely. If water does not flow out the discharge pipe, the pipe may be clogged or the check valve may be stuck.

Once you confirm the pump works, you are done with the installation. The pump will now turn on automatically whenever water collects in the pit, day or night. You do not need to do anything unless the pump fails to run or water backs up into the basement.

Maintenance and troubleshooting

A Wayne Halo50 typically runs for 5 to 10 years before the motor wears out. To extend its life, keep the pit clean — remove leaves, dirt, and debris that might clog the intake screen on the bottom of the pump. Once or twice a year, pour water into the pit to test that the pump still runs and the float switch moves freely.

If the pump runs constantly or will not turn off, the float switch is probably stuck or the pit is filling faster than the pump can empty it. Check that the float moves freely and that the discharge pipe is not clogged. If the pump does not turn on at all, confirm the outlet has power and that the cord is plugged in fully. If the outlet is a GFCI, press the "Reset" button — it may have tripped.

In winter, make sure the discharge pipe does not freeze. If you buried the pipe, it should be below the frost line in your area (your local building department can tell you how deep that is). If the pipe is above ground, drain it before freezing weather arrives, or insulate it with foam pipe wrap.

When to hire a plumber instead

You can do the installation yourself if you are comfortable working in a basement, using basic tools, and running pipe. Hire a plumber if the pit is in an awkward location, if you need to cut through a concrete wall to run the discharge pipe outside, if your electrical outlet is far from the pit, or if you are unsure about local code requirements for storm drain connections.

A plumber will also know whether your area requires a backup pump or a battery-powered system in case of power loss — some municipalities do. They can confirm the work meets code and handle any complications that come up during installation, which saves time and prevents mistakes that could damage your basement or foundation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install the pump myself or do I need a plumber?

Most homeowners can install the pump and discharge pipe themselves if the pit is accessible and the outlet is nearby. The hardest part is usually running the pipe outside through the basement wall. Hire a plumber if you need to cut through concrete, if you are unsure about local code, or if you want someone to confirm the work is correct.

What size discharge pipe do I need?

The Halo50 has a 1.5-inch outlet, so use 1.5-inch PVC pipe. Do not use a smaller pipe — it will restrict water flow and make the pump work harder. You can use a larger pipe if you want, but it is not necessary and costs more.

Do I need a backup pump or battery system?

A backup system is not required by code in most areas, but it is useful if you lose power during a storm. A battery-powered backup pump or a generator can keep water from backing up into your basement if the main pump fails. Check your local code to see if your area requires one.

How often should I test the pump?

Test the pump once or twice a year by pouring water into the pit and confirming it turns on and drains. If you notice the pump running more often than usual, or if water is backing up into the basement, test it when ready to see if something is wrong.

What should I do if the pump runs constantly?

Constant running usually means the pit is filling faster than the pump can empty it, or the float switch is stuck. Check that the float moves freely and that the discharge pipe is not clogged or frozen. If the pit is filling very quickly, you may have a serious water problem and should contact a plumber or waterproofing contractor.