What a timelapse video is and why you might make one
A timelapse video compresses hours or days of real time into seconds or minutes by taking still photos at regular intervals, then playing them back in sequence. The result looks like time is moving fast—clouds racing across the sky, a flower blooming, a sunset happening in ten seconds. You build a timelapse by shooting many photos, then importing them into video editing software that stitches them together.
People make timelapses for different reasons. You might document a construction project, show how light changes through a room over a day, create a visual effect for a film or social media post, or straightforward capture something beautiful that takes too long to watch in real time. The technique works with almost any camera—phone, DSLR, mirrorless, or even a webcam—as long as you can control when the photos are taken.
Key Takeaways
- A timelapse requires many photos taken at regular intervals; the interval depends on how fast you want time to move in the final video.
- Most phones have a built-in timelapse mode that handles the interval automatically, making it the easiest starting point.
- For cameras without timelapse mode, you can use an intervalometer (a device or app that triggers the camera at set times) or take photos manually.
- Video editing software like DaVinci Resolve (free), Adobe Premiere, or CapCut imports your photo sequence and plays it back as video.
- The math is straightforward: if you want a 10-second video at 24 frames per second, you need 240 photos; divide that by how many hours you're shooting to find your interval.
Shooting a timelapse on your phone
If you have an iPhone or Android phone, the easiest route is the built-in timelapse mode. On iPhone, open the Camera app, swipe to the Timelapse option at the bottom, press record, and let it run. The phone automatically takes photos at intervals and compresses them as it records. On Android, open the Camera app, find the More or Pro mode, select Timelapse, and record. The phone handles the interval for you.
Built-in timelapse mode works well for scenes that move noticeably—clouds, traffic, people moving through a space—because the phone's default interval (usually one photo every second or so) is tuned for visible change. The downside is you cannot adjust the interval or the final speed; you get what the phone decides. If you need more control, you can use a third-party app like Hyperlapse (iOS) or Framelapse (Android), which let you set a custom interval and see a preview before you shoot.
Phone timelapse works best when your phone is stable. Use a tripod, prop it against something solid, or rest it on a bag. If your phone moves even slightly between shots, the final video will look jittery. Keep your phone plugged in if you can; timelapse drains the battery fast because the screen stays on and the camera runs continuously.
Shooting a timelapse with a camera or DSLR
If you are using a dedicated camera, you need a way to trigger photos at regular intervals. Many newer cameras have a built-in interval timer or timelapse mode—check your camera's manual for "interval shooting" or "timelapse." If your camera has it, set the interval (in seconds) and the number of photos you want, then press start and let it run.
If your camera does not have interval shooting, you can use an intervalometer—a small device that plugs into your camera's remote trigger port and fires the shutter at intervals you set. Brands like Neewer and Vello make affordable intervalometers for around $20 to $50. Alternatively, some cameras work with smartphone apps that trigger the shutter remotely; check if your camera model supports this.
For manual shooting (if you have no other option), you can take photos by hand at regular intervals, but this is tedious and prone to timing errors. Set a timer on your phone, take a photo, wait for the timer, take another photo, and repeat for however many shots you need. This method works for short timelapses only.
Calculating the interval and number of photos you need
The interval is how many seconds pass between each photo. The number of photos you need depends on two things: how long you want the final video to be, and how fast you want time to move.
Start with your target video length and frame rate. Most videos play at 24 or 30 frames per second (fps). If you want a 10-second video at 24 fps, you need 240 photos (10 seconds × 24 frames). If you want a 30-second video, you need 720 photos.
Next, divide the number of photos by how many hours you are shooting. If you are shooting for 8 hours and need 240 photos, your interval is 120 seconds (8 hours = 28,800 seconds ÷ 240 photos). If you are shooting for 2 hours and need 720 photos, your interval is 10 seconds (2 hours = 7,200 seconds ÷ 720 photos). The longer your shooting window, the longer your interval can be.
A rough guide: intervals of 1 to 2 seconds work for fast-moving scenes (traffic, crowds, clouds). Intervals of 5 to 10 seconds work for medium-speed scenes (construction, plant growth, light changes). Intervals of 30 seconds or longer work for very slow scenes (sunrise, sunset, shadows moving across a room).
Importing photos into video editing software
Once you have your photos, you need to import them into video editing software and turn them into a video file. The software reads the photos in order and plays them back at your chosen frame rate.
DaVinci Resolve (free version available) is a good starting point. Open a new project, go to File > Import Media, and select all your photos at once (they should be numbered sequentially—most cameras do this automatically). Drag the photo sequence into the timeline. Right-click the sequence and select Clip Attributes, then set the frame rate to 24 or 30 fps. Export as an MP4 or other video format.
Adobe Premiere (paid subscription) works similarly: File > Import, select your photo sequence, drag it to the timeline, and export. CapCut (free, available on phone and desktop) also handles photo sequences—import the photos, arrange them in order, and export as video.
Before you import, make sure your photos are named in order (photo_001, photo_002, photo_003, and so on). Most cameras do this automatically, but if you have mixed photos from different sources, rename them so they sort correctly. On Windows, you can batch-rename files using a tool like Bulk Rename Utility. On Mac, use the Finder's rename feature or a free app like A-Zippr.
Adjusting speed and adding effects after import
Once your photo sequence is in the timeline, you can adjust how fast the timelapse plays. If it looks too slow, increase the frame rate or speed up the clip. If it looks too fast, slow it down. Most editing software lets you right-click the clip and choose Speed or Duration to make this change.
You can also add effects: color grading to make the light look richer, transitions between clips if you have multiple timelapses, or music that matches the pace. A slow, meditative timelapse pairs well with ambient music; a fast, energetic one works with upbeat tracks. Keep the audio in mind as you edit—the pacing of the timelapse should feel natural with the sound.
If your timelapse looks shaky or jittery, you can explore stabilization in most editing software (DaVinci Resolve has a built-in stabilizer under the Color page). This helps if your camera moved slightly between shots or if wind caused small vibrations.
Common problems and how to fix them
Flickering happens when the camera's exposure or white balance shifts between photos—common in outdoor timelapses as clouds pass or the sun moves. To prevent this, shoot in manual mode (not auto exposure) so the camera uses the same settings for every photo. If you already have flickering footage, some editing software can reduce it, but prevention is easier.
Gaps in the sequence occur when a photo fails to save or the camera runs out of battery mid-shoot. Check your memory card and battery before you start, and bring a spare of each. If you have gaps, you can sometimes delete the affected photos and re-export, or you can use software like Twixtor (a plugin for Premiere and After Effects) to interpolate missing frames, though this is not perfect.
Blurry photos usually mean the camera moved or the subject moved too fast for the shutter speed. Use a sturdy tripod and, if shooting outdoors, use a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture to keep everything sharp. If you are shooting something that moves (like clouds or traffic), some blur is normal and adds to the effect.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many photos do I actually need for a timelapse?
It depends on your target video length and frame rate. A 10-second video at 24 fps needs 240 photos. A 30-second video needs 720. Divide your total shooting time by the number of photos to find your interval. If you are shooting for 4 hours and want 480 photos, your interval is 30 seconds.
Can I make a timelapse with photos I already took?
Yes, if they are numbered in sequence and taken at regular intervals. Import them into your editing software as a photo sequence. If they are not numbered in order, rename them first so they sort correctly. If the intervals are uneven, the timelapse will look jerky, but it will still work.
What frame rate should I use when I export?
24 fps is standard for film and looks cinematic. 30 fps is standard for video and looks smoother. Most people cannot tell the difference, so pick one and stick with it. Make sure your editing software is set to the same frame rate as your export to avoid playback issues.
Do I need a special camera for timelapse?
No. Any camera that lets you take photos works—phone, DSLR, mirrorless, even a webcam. The only requirement is a way to trigger photos at regular intervals. Phones have built-in timelapse mode. Cameras may have interval shooting, or you can use an intervalometer or app.
Why does my timelapse look shaky?
The camera or tripod moved between shots, or wind caused vibration. Use a heavy tripod, find it well, and avoid touching it while shooting. If you already have shaky footage, explore stabilization in your editing software, though this may crop the image slightly.