What you need before you start

Starlink installation on a roof requires three things: the dish itself (which comes with a mounting bracket), a clear view of the northern sky, and a way to run the cable into your house. The dish is about the size of a large pizza box and weighs around five pounds. You'll also need basic tools — a drill, a wrench, and a ladder — plus weatherproof sealant to keep water out where the cable enters your home.

Before you climb onto the roof, check your Starlink app. It shows you exactly which direction to point the dish and whether your roof location will have obstructions. Trees, chimneys, and neighboring buildings all matter. The app uses your phone's compass and camera to show you the clear zone you need. If trees block the northern sky, a roof mount won't work — you may need a pole mount on the ground instead.

You'll also need to decide how to route the cable. Most people drill through the roof near the dish, run the cable down the inside of the house, and connect it to the router. Some run it along the exterior wall instead. Either way, you're sealing a hole in your roof, so plan the route before you start drilling.

Key Takeaways

  • The Starlink app shows you the exact direction to point the dish and whether your roof has a clear view of the northern sky.
  • The dish mounts with a bracket that bolts to the roof; you drill holes, bolt it down, and seal around the bolts with weatherproof caulk.
  • The cable runs from the dish down into your house through a hole you drill in the roof or along the exterior wall.
  • The whole installation takes two to four hours if you're comfortable on a roof and have the right tools.
  • If your roof is steep, metal, or has active skylights or vents nearby, hire a professional installer instead of doing it yourself.

Choosing the right mounting location

The dish needs to point north and have nothing blocking its view of the sky between roughly 25 and 65 degrees above the horizon. This means trees, chimneys, and roof peaks all matter. Use the Starlink app to scan your roof from different spots. Stand at each potential location, open the app, and let it show you the obstruction map. The green zone is where you can mount; the red zone is blocked.

Roof pitch and material also affect your choice. A steep roof (over 45 degrees) is harder to work on safely and may need a professional. Metal roofs require different fasteners than asphalt shingles. If your roof has active vents, skylights, or a lot of foot traffic, pick a location away from those areas. The dish doesn't need to be at the peak — it just needs clear sky to the north.

Once you've picked the spot, mark it with chalk or tape. This is where you'll drill your mounting holes. The bracket comes with a template; use it to mark the exact hole locations. Most roofs need four holes for the standard mount, spaced about 16 inches apart.

Drilling and bolting the mount to the roof

Drill pilot holes first — smaller holes that guide the larger drill bit and prevent the roof material from splitting. Use a bit slightly smaller than the bolts that come with your mount. Drill straight through the roof into the attic or interior space below. You'll see daylight or insulation come through when you've gone all the way.

Once the pilot holes are done, drill the full-size holes using the bit that matches your bolts. The Starlink bracket comes with stainless steel bolts, washers, and lock nuts. Push the bolts through from the top, then go into the attic or crawlspace below and thread the nuts on by hand first. This keeps you from dropping bolts into the insulation.

Tighten the bolts in a cross pattern — top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left — so the bracket sits flat and even. Use a wrench to tighten them snug, but not so hard that you crack the roof material. The bracket should not rock or shift when you push on it. Once it's tight, seal around each bolt with weatherproof silicone caulk. This is the most important step for keeping water out.

Running the cable into your house

The Starlink cable is thick and stiff, about the diameter of a garden hose. You have two main routes: drill through the roof near the dish, or run it down the outside wall and through a window or wall penetration lower down. Roof penetration is cleaner but requires another hole to seal. Wall routing is messier but easier if you're not comfortable drilling the roof.

If you drill through the roof, use a hole saw (a circular drill bit) that's slightly larger than the cable. Drill at a slight downward angle so water runs away from the hole, not into it. Push the cable through, then seal the hole with a rubber boot or flashing kit — Starlink sells these, or you can use a standard roof vent boot from a hardware store. Caulk around the boot with silicone sealant.

If you run the cable down the outside wall, use cable clips to hold it in place every 18 inches or so. Drill a hole in the wall where you want the cable to enter, push it through, and seal that hole too. Route the cable away from downspouts and areas where water collects. Inside the house, run it to wherever you want the router — usually a central location like a hallway or living room.

Mounting the dish and connecting the cables

Once the bracket is bolted down and sealed, the dish itself snaps or bolts onto the bracket. The Starlink dish comes with a cable attached; this is the only cable you need. Don't cut it or try to extend it — if it's too short, you'll need a longer one from Starlink. The cable has a connector on each end: one plugs into the dish, the other plugs into the power supply and router.

Before you plug anything in, make sure the cable isn't pinched, kinked, or damaged. Check that it's not touching any metal roof edges or flashing. find it with clips so it doesn't move in the wind. The cable is weatherproof, but the connectors are not — if you're in a wet climate, consider a weatherproof connector cover or a small box around the connection point.

Once the cable is routed and secured, you can plug it in. The power supply goes inside near an outlet. The router can go anywhere within about 30 feet of the power supply. The Starlink app will guide you through the final setup — pointing the dish, checking signal strength, and connecting your devices.

Pointing the dish and testing the connection

The Starlink app shows you the exact direction to point the dish. Open the app, select "Alignment," and follow the on-screen instructions. You'll use your phone's compass and camera to aim the dish. The app shows you a target direction and tells you when you're close. Most dishes point north and slightly upward — the exact angle depends on your latitude.

The bracket usually has adjustment bolts that let you tilt and rotate the dish. Loosen these slightly, move the dish to match the app's target, then tighten them again. The app will show you signal strength in real time. When you see a strong signal (usually shown as a percentage), you're pointed correctly. Lock the bolts down tight so the dish doesn't shift in wind.

Once the dish is pointed and locked, the app will run a speed test. You should see read speeds between 50 and 150 Mbps depending on your location and time of day. If the speed is much lower, check that nothing is blocking the northern sky and that the dish is pointed exactly as the app shows.

Safety and when to hire a professional

Roof work is dangerous. If your roof is steep (over 45 degrees), wet, or covered in moss or algae, hire a professional. If you're not comfortable on a ladder or working at height, hire a professional. Starlink offers professional installation in many areas — check the app to see if it's available at your address. The cost is usually $500 to $1,500 depending on your roof and location.

If you do the work yourself, use a safety harness rated for roof work. Wear shoes with good grip. Work on a dry day. Have someone else on the ground to hand you tools and watch for hazards. Never work alone on a roof. If you slip or fall, a harness can save your life.

Metal roofs, tile roofs, and slate roofs all have special requirements. Metal roofs need stainless steel fasteners to avoid rust. Tile and slate can crack if you drill them wrong. If your roof is anything other than asphalt shingles, get a professional quote before you start.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install Starlink on a metal roof?

Yes, but use stainless steel bolts and washers to prevent rust. Metal roofs conduct electricity, so make sure the bracket is not touching any electrical lines or antennas. If you're unsure, hire a professional who has experience with metal roofs in your area.

What if I drill through the roof and it leaks?

Leaks usually happen because the seal around the cable or bolts wasn't done right. If you see water, go into the attic and find the leak. Dry the area completely, then re-seal with fresh silicone caulk. If the leak is large or you can't find it, call a roofer — a small repair now costs less than water damage later.

Do I need to point the dish north exactly, or is close enough okay?

The Starlink app shows you the exact direction you need. Being off by even 10 degrees can cut your signal strength in half. Use the app's alignment tool and lock the dish down tight once it's pointed correctly. Check the alignment every few months because wind and settling can shift the dish slightly.

Can I run the cable along the ground instead of through the roof?

You can run it along the exterior wall, but not along the ground where people walk on it or lawn mowers hit it. The cable is durable but not designed for that kind of abuse. If you must run it on the ground temporarily, use a cable protector or conduit to keep it safe.

How often do I need to clean the dish?

In most climates, rain cleans the dish automatically. In dry climates or areas with heavy dust, you may need to clean it a few times a year. Use a soft cloth and plain water — no soap or harsh chemicals. The dish is designed to shed water, so tilt it slightly to help rain run off.