What actually slows down your internet, and what you can fix
Your internet speed depends on three separate things: the speed your provider sells you, the condition of the equipment between you and them, and how you are using your connection right now. You cannot change what your provider offers without switching providers or paying for a faster plan. But you can almost always improve the speed you actually get by fixing equipment problems and reducing interference — and those fixes cost nothing.
The most common culprits are a router placed in a bad location, too many devices connected at once, interference from other wireless networks or appliances, and equipment that is straightforward old. A few of these problems show up as slow speeds across everything you do. Others only slow you down when you are doing specific things — streaming video, for example, or uploading files.
Start by running a speed test from the same location where you normally use the internet, at a time when nobody else is using the connection. Write down the results. Then try the fixes below in order. After each one, run another speed test from the same spot at the same time of day. That tells you whether that particular fix actually helped you.
Key Takeaways
- Move your router to a central, elevated location away from walls, metal objects, and appliances like microwaves and cordless phones.
- Restart your modem and router by unplugging them for 30 seconds, then plugging them back in — this clears temporary slowdowns that build up over time.
- Reduce the number of devices connected to your network, especially ones running background updates or streaming video.
- Switch to the 5 GHz band on your router if your device supports it, which usually has less interference than the 2.4 GHz band.
- If none of these changes help, contact your provider to check whether the speed you are paying for is actually reaching your home.
Move your router to a better location
Router placement is the single biggest factor most people can control. A router in a closet, behind a TV, or in the corner of your house will give you slower speeds than one in the open. The signal weakens every time it passes through a wall, and metal objects absorb it almost completely.
Place your router in a central location, as high up as possible — on a shelf or mounted on a wall rather than on the floor. Keep it away from the kitchen, where microwaves and cordless phones broadcast on the same frequency and create interference. If you have a two-story house, put the router on the first floor roughly in the middle, not in a bedroom or closet. The goal is a clear path between the router and the places where you use the internet most.
If you cannot move the router itself, you can buy a mesh router system or a WiFi extender to reach dead zones. A mesh system replaces your current router with multiple units that work together. An extender is a separate device that picks up your existing signal and rebroadcasts it. Extenders are cheaper but usually slower than mesh systems. Either way, place the new unit halfway between your router and the area where you need better coverage.
Restart your modem and router
Modems and routers are small computers that can develop temporary slowdowns the same way your laptop does. Restarting clears the device's memory and forces it to reconnect to your provider's network fresh.
Unplug both your modem and router from power. Wait 30 seconds — this matters, because the device needs time to fully shut down. Plug the modem back in first and wait for all its lights to stabilize (usually 2 to 3 minutes). Then plug in the router and wait another 2 to 3 minutes for it to fully start up. Run a speed test once everything is stable.
Many people find that restarting once a month keeps speeds more consistent. Some routers have a built-in restart schedule you can set in the settings menu — look for "reboot" or "restart" in the administration panel, which you reach by typing your router's IP address into a web browser. If you do not know the IP address, it is usually printed on a sticker on the router itself.
Disconnect devices you are not actively using
Every device connected to your network uses some of your available bandwidth, even when you are not actively using it. Phones and tablets check for updates, smart home devices send data, and streaming services buffer video in the background. If you have 15 devices connected and only use 2 of them, the other 13 are still taking a slice of your speed.
Check your router's settings to see what is connected. The method varies by router model, but usually you log into the router's administration panel (the IP address is on the sticker) and look for "Connected Devices" or "DHCP Clients". Disconnect anything you do not use regularly — old phones, tablets, smart speakers you have moved to another room, or guest devices.
If you have family members streaming video or downloading large files while you are trying to work or study, that is a bandwidth problem, not a speed problem. Ask them to pause their activity, or upgrade to a faster plan if this happens regularly. Some routers let you set a Quality of Service (QoS) rule that prioritizes certain devices or activities — for example, you can tell the router to give your work laptop priority over the living room TV.
Switch to the 5 GHz band if your device supports it
Most routers broadcast on two frequencies: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. The 2.4 GHz band reaches farther but is crowded — your neighbors' routers, cordless phones, microwaves, and baby monitors all use it. The 5 GHz band is faster and less crowded, but does not travel through walls as well.
If you are close to your router and your device supports 5 GHz, connecting to that band usually gives you faster speeds. Check your router's settings to see if it is broadcasting both bands. Most modern routers do this automatically — your phone or laptop will see two network names, one ending in "5G" or "5GHz" and one without. Try connecting to the 5 GHz version and run a speed test. If you are far from the router or the speed is worse, switch back to 2.4 GHz.
Older devices may not support 5 GHz at all. If you see only one network name, your router is probably only broadcasting 2.4 GHz, or your device does not support the faster band. Check your device's manual or search for its model number plus "5 GHz support" to find out.
Check whether your provider is delivering the speed you pay for
If you have tried all the steps above and your speed is still much slower than what you pay for, the problem may be on your provider's side. Run a speed test while connected to your modem with an ethernet cable (not WiFi) to rule out wireless interference. If the speed is still low, contact your provider and tell them what speed you are paying for and what speed you measured.
Providers sometimes throttle speeds during peak hours, or your neighborhood's network may be congested. They may also have an issue with the line coming into your house. A technician can check the signal strength at your modem and tell you whether the problem is in your home or on their network. This call is usually free if the problem is on their side.
If your provider cannot improve the speed, you may want to explore whether other providers serve your address. Some areas have only one option, but many have two or more. You can search by address on BroadbandNow.com or contact your city or county's broadband office — many now maintain lists of available providers.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I restart my modem and router?
Once a month is a reasonable schedule for most households. If you notice speeds dropping noticeably after a few weeks, restart more often. Some routers let you schedule automatic restarts in the settings menu, usually at a time when nobody is using the internet.
Will a WiFi extender slow down my internet?
Yes, slightly. An extender receives your signal and rebroadcasts it, which uses some of your bandwidth. A mesh system is faster but more expensive. If you only need to reach one dead zone, an extender is usually worth the small speed trade-off.
What speed should I expect to actually get?
Most providers advertise speeds that are the theoretical maximum under perfect conditions. In real life, you usually get 70 to 90 percent of what you pay for. If you pay for 100 Mbps, expect 70 to 90 Mbps. If you are getting much less, contact your provider.
Does the type of cable matter for ethernet connections?
For most home speeds, any standard ethernet cable works fine. If you have very high speeds (over 500 Mbps), use a Cat6 or Cat6a cable rather than older Cat5e. The cable type is usually printed on the connector.
Can I improve my speed by changing my password?
Only if someone outside your household is using your network without permission. If you suspect that, change your WiFi password to something strong and make sure your router is using WPA3 or WPA2 encryption, not the older WEP standard. Check your router settings to see which encryption type is active.