You have four working options: wireless casting, USB-C video output, VGA with an adapter, or streaming through a separate device
HDMI is the easiest connection, but not the only one. If your laptop and TV don't both have HDMI ports, or your cable is broken or missing, you can still get video on the screen. The method depends on what ports your specific laptop and TV actually have — not all laptops have the same outputs, and older TVs especially may lack modern wireless features.
Before you buy anything, check what's on the back and sides of both devices. Look for USB-C ports (small, oval-shaped), VGA ports (blue, with three rows of small holes), DisplayPort (small rectangular slot), or built-in smart TV features. Knowing what you have narrows down which solution will actually work for you.
Key Takeaways
- Wireless casting through Miracast, AirPlay, or Chromecast works if both devices support it, but requires a strong WiFi connection and works best for presentations rather than fast-action video.
- USB-C video output works on newer laptops and some TVs, but you need a USB-C cable rated for video — not all USB-C cables carry video signal.
- VGA adapters are cheap and work with older TVs and laptops, but produce lower image quality and require a separate audio cable.
- A streaming device like a Chromecast, Roku, or Fire Stick plugs into any TV's HDMI port and lets you cast from your laptop wirelessly.
- Test the connection before you need it for something important, because some combinations of devices have compatibility quirks that only show up when you try.
Wireless casting: Miracast, AirPlay, and Chromecast
Wireless casting sends your screen to the TV over WiFi without any cable. It works on most modern laptops and smart TVs, but the exact method depends on what operating system your laptop runs and what the TV supports.
On Windows 10 and 11, right-click the taskbar and select "Show connected devices" or go to Settings > System > Display > Multiple displays. Look for "Connect to a wireless display" or "Project to this PC." Your TV needs to support Miracast, which most smart TVs made after 2015 do — check your TV's manual or settings menu for "Miracast," "Screen Mirroring," or "Wireless Display." The connection is encrypted and works at a distance of about 30 feet.
On a Mac, open Control Center (top right corner), click "Screen Mirroring," and select your TV. Your Mac will look for AirPlay-compatible devices, which includes most Apple TVs and many newer smart TVs from Samsung, LG, and Sony. If your TV doesn't appear, make sure both devices are on the same WiFi network.
Wireless casting has real limits. It works well for presentations, spreadsheets, and web browsing. It struggles with video games, fast-moving video, or anything that needs low latency — you'll see lag and stuttering. Audio sometimes drops out or plays from the wrong device. If the WiFi connection is weak, the picture will cut out repeatedly. Test it before you rely on it for something important.
USB-C video output: The fastest wired option for newer laptops
Many newer laptops have USB-C ports that can output video directly. This is faster and more stable than wireless casting, but only if your TV also has USB-C input — most older TVs do not. Check your TV's manual or the ports on the back; USB-C on a TV is still uncommon outside of high-end models.
If your TV does have USB-C, buy a USB-C cable rated for video output. Not all USB-C cables carry video signal — the cable must support "USB-C Alt Mode" or "USB-C video." The cable should say this on the package or product page. Plug one end into your laptop and one into the TV, then select the USB-C input on the TV remote. Your laptop should detect the TV and ask where to display the image.
If your TV has USB-C but no video input, you may still be able to use it to power a streaming device. Some newer Roku or Fire Stick models can run on USB-C power, which means you could plug the device into the TV's USB-C port and cast wirelessly from there.
VGA adapters: The cheapest option for older equipment
VGA is an older video standard, but it still works on many laptops and most older TVs. If your laptop has a VGA port (a blue port with three rows of small holes) or a USB-C/Thunderbolt port, and your TV has a VGA input, this is the cheapest solution — a VGA cable costs $5 to $15.
Check what your laptop actually has. If it has USB-C but no VGA port, you need a USB-C to VGA adapter, which costs $15 to $30. If it has neither, this route won't work. On the TV side, look for a blue VGA port, usually labeled "PC In" or "VGA." Plug the cable in, then use the TV remote to select the VGA input.
VGA has two drawbacks. First, the image quality is noticeably lower than HDMI or USB-C — colors look duller and text can be blurry, especially on large screens. Second, VGA carries video only, not audio. You'll need a separate 3.5mm audio cable (the same jack as headphones) running from your laptop's headphone jack to the TV's audio input, or you can use the TV's built-in speakers if your laptop can send audio through HDMI or USB-C simultaneously. This is rare, so assume you'll need the separate cable.
Streaming devices: The most reliable option if your TV has HDMI
If your TV has an HDMI port but your laptop doesn't, or if wireless casting is too unreliable for what you need, plug a streaming device into the TV's HDMI port. Chromecast, Roku, Fire Stick, and Apple TV all let you cast from a laptop wirelessly. The device costs $25 to $100 depending on the model, but it's a one-time purchase that works with any future laptop too.
Chromecast is the cheapest option at around $30 and works with Windows, Mac, and Linux. You plug it into the TV's HDMI port, connect it to WiFi, then cast from your laptop's Chrome browser or from any app that supports Chromecast. Roku and Fire Stick cost more but have their own app stores and remote controls, so they're more like a full TV box than just a casting receiver.
Streaming devices are more stable than built-in wireless casting because they're designed specifically for that job. The connection is usually smoother, audio syncs better, and you have fewer compatibility quirks. The tradeoff is that you need to buy the device upfront and have an HDMI port on the TV.
Checking your ports before you buy anything
Before you spend money on cables or adapters, write down exactly what ports you have on both devices. On your laptop, look at the sides and back for USB-C (small oval), HDMI (flat rectangular), VGA (blue with holes), or DisplayPort (small rectangular slot). On your TV, look at the back for HDMI, USB-C, VGA, or DisplayPort. Also check your TV's manual or settings menu for wireless features like Miracast, AirPlay, or Chromecast built-in.
If you're not sure what a port is, take a photo and search for it online. Laptop manufacturers' websites usually have a diagram showing all ports. TV manuals are often available as PDFs on the manufacturer's website — search "[TV model number] manual" and look for the "Connections" or "Ports" section.
Once you know what you have, match it to one of the four methods above. If you have multiple options, wireless casting is easiest but least reliable; USB-C is fastest if both devices support it; VGA is cheapest but lowest quality; and a streaming device is most reliable if your TV has HDMI.
Troubleshooting when the connection won't work
If you've plugged everything in or turned on wireless casting and nothing appears on the TV, start with the TV remote. Make sure you've selected the correct input — use the "Input," "Source," or "HDMI" button on the remote and scroll through the options until you see your device. Many people plug in a cable and forget this step.
For wireless casting, make sure both devices are on the same WiFi network. Restart both the laptop and TV — unplug the TV for 10 seconds, then plug it back in. On Windows, go to Settings > System > Display and click "Connect to a wireless display" again. On Mac, open Control Center and click Screen Mirroring again. Sometimes the devices need a fresh search to find each other.
If you're using an adapter or cable, try a different one if you have it. Cheap adapters fail often, and a $5 cable might be the problem. If you borrowed someone else's USB-C cable, it might not support video — buy one labeled "USB-C Alt Mode" or "USB-C video" and try again.
If nothing works after trying these steps, the devices may not be compatible. Check the TV manual for which wireless standards it supports, or check your laptop manufacturer's website for which video outputs it has. Some older TVs and laptops straightforward don't have a way to talk to each other without HDMI.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a phone charger cable to connect my laptop to the TV?
Not for video. A phone charger cable carries power only, not video signal. Even if the connector looks the same, it won't work. You need a cable or adapter specifically labeled for video output — USB-C Alt Mode, VGA, or DisplayPort.
Why does wireless casting lag so much when I play video?
Wireless casting compresses the video signal to send it over WiFi, which introduces delay. It's fine for static content like slides or documents, but video games and fast-moving video will stutter. A wired connection (USB-C or VGA) or a dedicated streaming device usually performs better.
Do I need to buy a new TV to use USB-C?
Most TVs don't have USB-C input yet. If your TV is older than five years, it almost certainly doesn't. Check the back of your TV or the manual. If it doesn't have USB-C, use wireless casting, VGA, or a streaming device instead.
What if my laptop has Thunderbolt instead of USB-C?
Thunderbolt ports look similar to USB-C and support the same adapters. A USB-C to VGA or USB-C to HDMI adapter will work with a Thunderbolt port. Check your laptop manual to confirm which standard your port uses.
Is there a way to get audio and video through VGA?
VGA carries video only. You need a separate 3.5mm audio cable from your laptop's headphone jack to the TV's audio input. Some newer laptops can send audio through USB-C or HDMI at the same time as video, but VGA never carries audio on its own.